Sewing Techniques
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Piped reversible vest by machine
Reversible vest by machine
Fast and Accurate Flying Geese
Continous Bias Strips

Piped reversible vest by machine
All-machine reversible vest

  1. Cut out and prepare two vests, embellishing as desired. Stitch only the side seams for each set of vests.
  2. Take the two vests and match the right sides, matching seams and notches. Stitch the neck , front opening and the lower edges, leaving the shoulder seams open. Stitch armhole edges stopping 3"-4" from shoulder seams.
  3. Trim and grade seams. Turn rightside through one of the back shoulder openings. Press.
  4. Open out shoulders. Pin front and back right sides together at shoulders. Stitch in one continous seam vest 1 and vest 2 shoulder. Repeat for other shoulder.
  5. Trim shoulder seams. Press. Turn in remaining edges of garment along shoulder area seamlines. Press. Edgestitching along all edges of vest will secure the shoulder area in particular, as well as, giving a crisp edge for rest of vest.

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Fast and Accurate Flying Geese

Determining cutting measurements of two pieces of fabric to make geese

  1. Add 2 1/2" to longest side of desired finished Flying Geese for the larger square ----- i.e. a 3 1/2" x 6" goose means cut an 8" square (6" + 2 1/2")
  2. Add 1 1/4" to the longest side of desired finished Flying Geese for the smaller square ---- i.e. a 3 1/2" x 6" goose means cut an 7 1/4" square (6" + 1 1/4")
Finished size

Constructing Flying Geese pt 1

  1. Center smaller square, right sides together, to larger square.
  2. Draw a diagonal chalk line from one corner to another
  3. Stitch 1/4" on each side of chalk line
  4. Use the chalk line as a guide and cut fabric into two parts

Constructing Flying Geese pt 2

  1. Chalk a line bisecting the triangle from apex to base
  2. Stitch 1/4" on each side of chalk line

  3. Press stitch line, then unfold & press seam to the largest side
  4. Right sides together, place light color to dark color. Make sure outside edges match. NOTE: center seams will not align.
  5. Sew 1/4" seam on long side of funny looking triangle
  6. Press seams to dark side
  7. Cut square in half through larger triangle fabric.
  8. Trim as neccessary

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Continuous Bias Strips

  1. Take 1/2 yard of fabric.
  2. Turn down one corner to create a 45° angle. Press the fold lightly as a guide. Open and cut on the fold.
  3. Put rights side together: one triangle's short edge to the fabric strip's short edge and stitch a 1/4" seam. You will now have a parallelogram. Press the seam open. (Fig. 1)
  4. For a 1" bias strip do the following: Right sides together, bring the right (shorter point) bottom of parallelogram up to the top right (longer point) of parallelogram. (Fig. 2) Off set the bottom right point 1" in from the top. Begin stitching a 1/4" seam. You will begin to form a fabric cylinder as you sew. (Fig. 3)
  5. Insert a small rotary cutting mat in tube, and use a ruler as guide 1" from edge of cylinder and cut continuous bias strips with rotary cutter or use your serger (with needle removed) to cut 1" continuous strips.

From: (Judy Morin)
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 11:46:56 -0400
Subject: Re: PFAFF: In a Bind (ing)!
The Pfaff ec's are teaching a simple method of machine sewing the second
side of the binding (not to be done on your heirloom quilt, but certainly
acceptable for children's quilts).
Make French fold binding as usual (Cut 2" wide strips, join and press in
half lengthwise). Sew to the front side of the quilt using a 1/4" seam
allowance, jopin as usual.
Fold the binding to the back of the quilt. Set up your machine for a short
narrow blind hem stitch. Holding the quilt so the binding is on the bottom
(the back of the quilt is facing you and folded back to reveal the
binding), sew with the blind hem stitch. The straight stitches should
stitch "in air" and the zigzag stitch should catch the binding *and* the
back of the quilt. The stitch should *not* go through to the front, but
just catch the backing fabric and (maybe) a little of the batting.
This is a quick and resonably sturdy machine finish to a "utility" quilt.
Continuing the thread,
Judy Morin (in the beautiful mountains of Western NC)
(Pfaff 1229 and 7570 with PCD_WIN)

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